how much do wood floors cost


how-much-do-wood-floors-cost how much do wood floors cost

how much do wood floors cost – Stone floors are extremely popular, and they have been for many years.

1. Lack of Allergic

The number 1 enemy of all flooring, not just rock, is self explanatory. If I used to shoot two diamonds (the hardest known natural material) and rub them against each other, guess what, they will possibly wear. Every-day grit, carried in on shoes can contain all kinds of minerals like quartz. Walking this on your floor will immediately dull and scratch its surface. The solution would be to remove self indulgent, any way you can and among the best ways would be to place a dust-collecting mat away from the door. If you add another just inside you’re giving your floor a much greater chance of avoiding harmful grit.

2. Walking on your Stone Floors with Out-Door Shoes

This is related to the initial point naturally. If you have a fancy polished hardwood flooring, or an expensive rug, I bet you take off your shoes perfect? All of us tend to instinctively understand how to be careful on other floors materials and treat them with the respect they deserve. Well rock is no different, it requires love and esteem also. Take your shoes off and put your slippers on, that way you cannot carry harmful grit on the floor.

3. Over-Mopping

Some folk just seem to need to wash their floor to death. The more you clean with strong detergents and do not rinse efficiently, (see point #6), the greater possibility of leaving residues which produce the floor appear dull and dead. Most often, all that is needed is a few regular dry sweeping or cleaning, with a soft brush or micro-fibre floor duster or vacuuming. This will also help keep grit off the floor.

4. Not attending to Spills and Accidents immediately

Somehow, we are predisposed to take care of hard rock flooring differently to state carpet or wood. If, for instance, we have an extremely costly carpeting and we spill something on it, like a glass of wine for example, would we sit and watch it become a blot? I don’t think so. Even if that rug has some sort of stain protection on it, we know that it will only buy us a few ‘time to react’, so we rush off to the kitchen for the towels.

Well guess what, supplying ‘response time’ is all sealers do for gems. Exactly enjoy the carpeting, if we spill something we should absorb this up straight away, particularly if it’s something such as wine or some other acidic liquid. We do not trickle ‘stains’ we trickle contaminants, it’s when we leave the contaminant for a length of time to permeate the rock, that they become stains. If the floor is sealed with a great sealer, we simply get a little more reaction time. Many stains could be avoided by caring for spills and accidents as the occur.

5. Wrong Selection of cleaner for routine cleaning

It is so easy to buy an off the shelf floor cleaner out of the super markets. However, most of them are strong de-greasers, high ph cleaners intended to deep clean very grubby flooring. Additional there is a natural human tendency to ignore directions and make it extra strong, if it says add one capful a bucket, how many people have added another one just for luck? There are causes of all these directions and dilution rates but much more significant, there is simply no requirement to use such chemicals for every day or weekly cleaning.

After the floor does require a fast wash (and if we take note of the initial 4 points then this might not need to be too often) no problem, we simply need to be certain to use a neutral cleaner, that is just one having a ph value of about 7 to 8. There are loads of them on the market, all designed to clean gently with no harmful effect on the floor or on any sealer or finish that may be applied.

6. Only carrying on with the same old pattern

Every now and then, the floor requires a little intensive care. This is the time to use those high alkaline cleaners.

The crucial word here is live period – those cleaners will need to be left on the floor for a period of time – 5 to 15 minutes typically. The biggest mistake people make this would be to simply wash the floor with the large ph detergent. Ignore live time and you waste your own time and energy. The cleaners require time to get the job done. Then they need to be agitated, or scrubbed, remember we aren’t doing so each week, just a few times a year so we can manage the time to do it properly. Notice, this type of cleaner might have an effect on almost any sealer used, so check first; you might need to top up the sealer afterwords.

7. Not Rinsing the floor after washing

This is one of the most important, yet most overlooked aspects of floor cleaning. It isn’t important how much effort we put into cleaning, nor how successful the cleaning-chemical, if we leave dirty water lying around the floor, when it dries, we will have residues. Consider what we have just achieved: we place a strong chemical on the floor; we let it sit (live time) so it’s started to break down the ingrained dirt; we scrubbed – to loosen more dirt and allow the cleaner to penetrate deeper.

Then what tends to happen is that we push all this around with a mop, then occasionally rinse the mop in plain water which by now has long since stopped being fresh or clean, and we place the sole partially washed mop, then back on the floor to disperse more grungy water round. Sure, a few of the dirt is moved into the mop bucket, but a lot has left behind. In addition to the dirt (a few of that is currently broken down and nicer, so it can get deeper into the floor(particularly the grout joints) we also leave behind detergent residue. This combo of residue and partially emulsified grime quickly builds up to leave a dull patina on the rock and is among the main reasons grout lines go dark and grubby so quickly.

The remedy is easy, after washing the floor, go change the dirty water which includes the detergent, then rinse out the bucket along with the mop and fill the bucket with fresh, clean water. Now, examine the floor again with just that clean water. If it’s a big floor, you might need to modify the rinse water again, maybe more than once – but do it since it will save you time in the long run.

8. Leaving the floor moist

Many rock flooring are smooth or even polished and consequently they can behave in the specific same way as glass. So, after draining the floor, it’s very good practice to wash the floor down with an absorbent cotton towel or a micro-fiber cloth. Buffing flooring dry just like this (either by hand or with a machine, based upon how big your floor) will remove the remaining moisture (and some other stray smudges which might have been overlooked).


If we do not react fast enough to spills (mistake #4) we can end up with a blot. If we continually ignore that blot, and another one and so on, pretty soon the floor is able to look deeply ingrained and usually grubby. For isolated little stains attempt a localized poultice stain remover.


When an acid sensitive rock floor, like polished marble is subjected to an acidic contaminant, like red wine, the result is often either a blot (the red colour) and also an etch mark. It is often confused with a blot as it’s so often accompanied by you. The acidity essentially burns fresh holes in the rock, those holes weren’t there before, so no sealer might have got into them, Additionally, most polished flooring use impregnating sealers that work below the surface and so offer no protection against acids at the surface itself.

The best way to spot an etch mark would be to clean the ‘blot’ (deep clean or poultice like) then after rinsing and permitting the floor to dry check where the blot was. If the stain has now gone, but in its place is a dull place often with a rougher texture (in comparison to the polished surface) and a whiter or bleached (less colour anyway) look, then this really is an etch-mark. If we now ignore this damage (since that is what it is, bodily damage to the rock surface) then it will leave the rock more vulnerable to rust (the surface is currently more textured so it will tend to hold dirt more easily, it’s also less dense, and so potentially more absorbent and some other sealer will have been compromised). Small and localized etching can be immediately repaired with a hand applied re-polishing lotion, larger scale etching will likely require the help of a rock floor specialist.


Please, do not listen to them, period. The main reason I consider such a strong stance on this is that I have seen the results. The fantastic, versatile abilities of household products such as peppermint and lemon juice are forever being indicated for all manor of cleaning, and yes they can get the job done. They operate by virtue of being acidic and will break down a number of minerals (lime scale on tiles for instance).

Not only have you ever seen whole floors ruined, the surface completely piled, but they also stain the floor. After performing this as great job of removing the polish, they then add their own colour or colour to the now much more porous floor.

Lemon juice and juice belong in the larder or pantry, not the cleaning cupboard.


Don’t assume that simply because your rock floor was sealed during setup, that it still has an effective seal in place two years on. It might have, but during that time, the floor will have experienced a fair bit of traffic and it’s most probably been exposed to a number of cleaning chemicals. It is highly advisable to check the integrity of the sealer occasionally. For a coat type sealer I would suggest checking about every 6 to 12 months, to get an impregnator each 12 to 24 months.

The means to do it is to shed some water on the floor and leave it to say 10 minutes. If it goes in quickly and darkens the rock, then when wiped it away leaves a moist patch, then it would be a good idea to top up the sealer. If the water does not go in the rock except for a feint surface shadow, it’s most likely fine for the time being.

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