floor to ceiling cat tree – Stone floors are extremely popular, and they have been for several years. The huge array of colors and shades, the durability, practicality and relative ease of maintenance, and their prosperity in nature has made them a perennial choice of flooring material down the centuries. However, they’re not indestructible, they are easy to look after and preserve but there are a number of pitfalls to avoid.
1. Lack of Allergic
The number 1 enemy of all flooring, not just stone, is self explanatory. If I used to shoot two diamonds (the hardest known natural material) and rub them against each other, guess what, they will both wear. Every-day grit, carried in on shoes can contain all sorts of minerals such as quartz. Walking this onto your floor will immediately dull and scratch its surface. The answer would be to eliminate grit, any way you can and among the most effective ways would be to put a dust-collecting mat outside the door. Should you add another just inside you’re giving your flooring a far better chance of avoiding harmful grit.
2. Walking in your Stone Floors with Out-Door Shoes
This is associated with the initial point naturally. If you’ve got a fancy polished hardwood flooring, or an expensive carpet, I wager you take your shoes off right? We all tend to instinctively understand how to be mindful on other flooring materials and treat them with the respect they deserve. Well stone is not any different, it requires love and esteem also. Take your shoes off and put your slippers on, that way you cannot carry harmful grit onto the ground.
Some people just appear to need to wash their flooring to death. The more you clean with strong detergents and do not rinse efficiently, (see point #6), the more possibility of leaving residues that make the floor look dull and lifeless. Most frequently, all that is needed is some normal dry sweeping or cleaning, with a gentle brush or micro-fibre flooring duster or vacuuming. This will also help keep grit off the ground.
4. Not attending to Spills and Accidents right away
Somehow, we tend to take care of hard stone flooring differently to state wood or carpeting. If, as an example, we’ve got a very costly carpeting and we spill something about it, like a glass of wine for example, would we sit and see it become a blot? I don’t think so. Even if this carpet has any sort of stain protection on it, we all know that it is only going to buy us some ‘time to react’, so we rush off into the kitchen for those towels.
Well guess what, providing ‘reaction time’ is all sealers do for gems. Exactly enjoy the carpeting, if we spill something we ought to absorb it up straight away, especially if it’s something such as wine or any other acidic liquid. We do not spill ‘stains’ we spill contaminants, so it’s when we leave the contaminant for a amount of time to permeate the stone, that they become stains. If the flooring is sealed with a great sealer, we simply get a bit more reaction time. Many stains would be prevented by taking care of spills and accidents as the happen.
5. Wrong choice of cleaner for routine cleaning
But most of these are strong de-greasers, high ph cleaners intended to deep clean very grubby flooring. Furthermore, there is a natural human inclination to ignore instructions and allow it to be extra strong, if it says add one capful per bucket, just how many people have inserted another one just for luck? There are reasons for all these instructions and dilution prices but much more important, there is simply no requirement to use such chemicals for every day or weekly cleanup.
After the flooring does require a fast wash (and if we take note of the initial 4 points then this might not need to be too frequently) no issue, we simply must make sure to use a neutral cleaner, that is one with a ph value of around 7 to 8. There are plenty of them on the market, all designed to clean gently without a harmful influence on the ground or on any sealer or finish that could be applied.
6. Just carrying on with the Exact Same old routine
This is the opportunity to utilize those high alkaline cleaners. But, try to use one that is designed for stone rather than simply reaching for the cheapest supermarket brand (we are only doing this once or twice per year therefore no need to penny-pinch).
The crucial word here is dwell time – these cleaners need to get left on the ground for a time period – 5 to 15 minutes on average. The greatest mistake people make here would be to simply wash the floor with the large ph detergent. Ignore dwell time and you waste your own time and effort. The cleansers require time to work. They then need to get agitated, or scrubbed, remember we are not doing this every week, just a few times per year so we are able to afford the opportunity to do it properly. Notice, this type of cleaner might have an effect on any sealer utilized, so check first; you might want to top up the sealer afterwords.
7. Not Rinsing the ground after washing
It isn’t important how much effort we put to cleanup, nor how powerful the cleaning-chemical, if we leave dirty water lying around the ground, when it dries, we’ll have residues. Consider what we have just done: we put a strong chemical on the ground; we let it sit (dwell time) so it has begun to break down the ingrained dirt; we scrubbed – to loosen more dirt and permit the cleaner to penetrate deeper.
Then what tends to happen is that we push all this around with a mop, then occasionally rinse the mop in water that by today has long since stopped being fresh or clean, and we put the sole partially washed mop, then back on the ground to disperse more grungy water round. Sure, some of this dirt is moved to the mop bucket, however, plenty has left behind. Along with the dirt (some of that is now broken down and finer, therefore it can get deeper to the ground(particularly the grout joints) we also leave behind detergent residue. This combination of residue and partially emulsified grime rapidly builds up to leave a dull patina on the stone and is among the main reasons grout lines proceed dim and grubby so quickly.
The remedy is simple, after washing the ground, go switch the dirty water that includes the detergent, then rinse out the bucket along with the mop and then fill the bucket with clean, fresh water. Now, go over the ground again with just that clean water. If it’s a big floor, you might have to change the rinse water again, perhaps more than once – but do it since it’ll save you time in the long run.
8. Leaving the ground wet
Have you noticed what happens to glass windows after washing if they’re just left to dry naturally? Many stone flooring are eloquent or even polished and consequently they could act in the specific same way as glass. So, after rinsing the ground, it’s very good practice to dry the floor down with an absorbent cotton towel or a micro-fiber cloth. Buffing flooring dry like this (either by hand or with a machine, depending upon the size of your flooring) will remove the remaining moisture (and some other stray smudges that might have been overlooked).
9. Ignoring Little Stains
If we don’t react fast enough to spills (error #4) we could end up with a blot. If we continually ignore that blot, and another one and so on, pretty soon the flooring can look deeply ingrained and generally grubby. For isolated little stains try a localized poultice stain remover.
When an acid sensitive stone flooring, such as polished marble is subjected to an acidic contaminant, such as red wine, the end result is often either a blot (the reddish colour) and an etch mark. It’s frequently confused with a blot as it’s so frequently accompanied by one. The acid essentially burns fresh holes in the stone, those holes were not there before, therefore no sealer could have got into them, Additionally, most polished flooring use impregnating sealers that work beneath the surface and so offer no protection against acids at the surface itself.
The best way to spot a etch mark would be to clean the ‘blot’ (deep clean or poultice for example) then after rinsing and allowing the ground to dry check where the blot was. If the stain has now gone, but in its place is a dull spot often with a rougher feel (in comparison to the polished surface) plus a whiter or bleached (less color anyway) look, then this is an etch-mark. If we now ignore this harm (since that is what it is, bodily harm to the stone surface) then it will leave the stone more vulnerable to rust (the surface is now more textured so it is going to tend to maintain dirt more readily, it’s also less dense, and therefore potentially more absorbent and some other sealer will have been compromised). Small and localized etching can be immediately repaired with a hand applied re-polishing cream, larger scale etching will probably require the help of a stone floor specialist.
11. Using Home Remedies and Organic Acids
We’ve got all heard household elders, and TV experts rave about old homemade remedies for cleaning. Please, do not hear them, period. The reason why I consider such a strong stance about this is that I have seen the results. The fantastic, versatile powers of family products such as vinegar and lemon juice are forever being suggested for all manor of cleaning, and yes they could work. They operate by virtue of being acidic and will break down a number of minerals (lime scale on tiles as an example).
Not only have I seen entire floors destroyed, but the surface completely etched, but in addition they stain the ground. After performing such as good job of removing the polish, then they add their particular color or hue into the now much more porous flooring.
Lemon juice and juice belong in the larder or pantry, not the cleaning cupboard.
Do not assume that simply because your stone flooring was sealed during installation, that it still has an effective seal in place two years on. It might have, but throughout this time, the flooring will have experienced a fair bit of visitors and it has most probably been exposed to a number of cleaning chemicals. It’s advisable to check the integrity of this sealer periodically. For a coating type sealer I’d suggest checking about every 6 to 12 months, for an impregnator every 12 to 24 months.
The way to do this is to drop some water onto the ground and leave it for say 10 minutes. If it moves in quickly and darkens the stone, then when wiped away it leaves a wet patch, then it would be advisable to top up the sealer. If the water does not go in the stone except for a feint surface shadow, then it’s most likely fine for now.