david weekley homes floor plans – Stone floors are extremely popular, and they have been for many years. The vast array of colors and colors, the durability, practicality and relative simplicity of maintenance, and their prosperity in nature has made them a continuing selection of flooring material down the centuries. Below are the most frequent mistakes people make when caring for their flooring.
1. Lack of Dust Mats
The number 1 enemy of all flooring, not just stone, is self explanatory. If I used to shoot two diamonds (the hardest known all-natural substance) and rub them against each other, guess what, they will both wear. Every-day grit, carried in on shoes may contain all sorts of minerals such as quartz. The answer would be to remove grit, any way you can and one of the most effective ways would be to place a dust-collecting mat outside the door. If you add another just inside you’re giving your floor a much greater chance of avoiding harmful grit.
2. Walking in your Stone Floors with Out-Door Shoes
This is associated with the first point naturally. In case you have a fancy polished wood floor, or a costly rug, I bet you take off your shoes perfect? We all tend to instinctively understand the way to be careful on other floors materials and deal with them with the respect they deserve. Well stone is not any different, it needs love and esteem too. Take your shoes off and put your slippers on, that way you cannot carry harmful grit on the ground.
Some folk just seem to want to wash their floor to death. The more you wash with strong detergents and don’t rinse effectively, (see point #6), the more possibility of leaving residues which make the floor look dull and dead. Most frequently, all that is needed is a few regular dry sweeping or cleaning, with a soft brush or micro-fibre floor duster or vacuuming. This may also help keep grit off the ground.
4. Not attending to Spills and Accidents immediately
Somehow, we are predisposed to take care of hard stone flooring differently to state wood or carpeting. If, for example, we’ve got a very costly carpeting and we spill something about it, like a glass of wine for example, would we sit and watch it become a stain? I don’t think so. Even if this rug has some kind of stain protection on it, we all know that it is only going to buy us a few ‘time to respond’, thus we rush off into the kitchen for those towels.
Well guess what, providing ‘response time’ is all sealers do for stone. Exactly enjoy the carpeting, if we spill something we should absorb it up straight away, especially if it’s something such as wine or some other liquid liquid. We don’t trickle ‘stains’ we trickle contaminants, so it’s when we leave the contaminant for a amount of time to penetrate the stone, that they become spots. If the floor is sealed with a good sealer, we simply get a bit more reaction time. Many spots would be avoided by caring for spills and accidents as the occur.
5. Wrong choice of cleaner for regular cleaning
But most of them are strong de-greasers, high ph cleaners intended to wash very grubby flooring. Furthermore, there’s a natural human tendency to ignore instructions and allow it to be extra strong, if it states add one capful a bucket, just how many of us have inserted another one just for fortune? There are causes of all these instructions and dilution rates but even more significant, there’s absolutely no need to use such chemicals for every day or weekly cleanup.
After the floor does need a fast wash (and if we take note of the first 4 factors then this may not need to be too frequently) no problem, we simply need to be certain that you use a neutral cleaner, that is one with a ph value of about 7 to 8. There are plenty of them out there, all designed to wash gently without a damaging influence on the ground or onto any sealer or finish that may be applied.
6. Just carrying on with the same old pattern
Every now and then, the floor needs a little intensive care. This is the opportunity to use those high alkaline cleaners.
The key word here is live period – those cleaners will need to be left on the ground for a time period – 5 to 15 minutes typically. The biggest mistake people make here would be to simply wash the floor with the large ph detergent. Ignore live time and you waste your own time and effort. The cleansers need time to get the job done. Then they need to be agitated, or scrubbed, remember we aren’t doing this every week, just a couple of times a year so we are able to afford the opportunity to do it correctly. Note, this kind of cleaner might have an effect on almost any sealer utilized, so check first; you might need to top up the sealer afterwords. This brings us on the biggest mistake of all(it is also the easiest one to fix).
7. Not Rinsing the ground after washing
This is one of the most important, yet most overlooked aspects of floor cleaning. It isn’t important how much effort we put to cleanup, nor how successful the cleaning-chemical, if we leave dirty water lying around the ground, as it dries, we will have residues. Consider what we have just achieved: we place a strong chemical on the ground; we let it sit (live time) so it has begun to break down the ingrained dirt; we scrubbed – to loosen more dirt and permit the cleaner to penetrate deeper.
Then what will happen is that we push all this around with a mop, sometimes rinse the mop in water which by now has long since ceased being clean or fresh, and we place the only partly washed mop, back on the ground to disperse more grungy water around. Sure, a few of the dirt is transferred to the mop bucket, but a lot gets left behind. In addition to the dirt (a few of which is now broken down and nicer, therefore it may get deeper to the ground(particularly the grout joints) we also leave behind detergent residue. This combo of residue and partly emulsified dirt quickly builds up to leave a dull patina on the stone and is one of the chief reasons grout lines go dim and grubby so fast.
The remedy is simple, after washing the ground, go change the dirty water which contains the detergent, rinse the bucket out and the mop and fill the bucket with fresh, clean water. Now, go over the ground again with just that wash water. If it’s a big floor, you might need to change the rinse water again, maybe more than once – but do it as it’ll save you time in the long term.
8. Leaving the ground wet
Streaks and smears. Many stone flooring are eloquent or even polished and consequently they can behave in the specific same manner as glass. So, after rinsing the ground, it’s very good practice to dry down the floor with an absorbent cotton towel or a micro-fiber fabric. Buffing flooring dry just like this (either by hand or with a machine, depending upon how big your floor) will remove the remaining moisture (and any stray smudges which might have been overlooked).
9. Ignoring Little Stains
If we don’t respond fast enough to spills (mistake #4) we can wind up with a stain. If we always ignore that stain, and the next one and so forth, pretty soon the floor can look deeply ingrained and usually grubby.
When an acid sensitive stone floor, such as polished marble is exposed to an acidic contaminant, such as red wine, the end result is often both a stain (the reddish colour) and also an etch mark. An etch-mark is what occurs when something acidic erodes away the fine polished surface of [typically] calcium-based stones. It’s frequently confused with a stain as it’s so frequently accompanied by one. The acid basically burns fresh holes in the stone, those holes weren’t there before, therefore no sealer might have got into them, Also, most polished flooring use impregnating sealers which work beneath the surface and thus offer no defense against acids in the surface itself.
The way to spot an etch mark would be to wash the ‘stain’ (deep wash or poultice for example) then after rinsing and permitting the ground to dry check where the stain was. If the stain has now gone, but in its place is a dull spot often with a more demanding texture (in comparison to the polished surface) and a thinner or bleached (less color anyway) look, then this is an etch-mark. If we now ignore this harm (because that is what it is, physical harm to the stone surface) then it may leave the stone more vulnerable to rust (the surface is now more textured so it will tend to maintain dirt more easily, it’s also less dense, and therefore potentially more absorbent and any sealer will have been compromised). Small and localized etching may be immediately repaired with a hand applied re-polishing cream, bigger scale etching will probably require the services of a stone floor professional.
Please, don’t hear them, period. The reason I consider such a strong stance about this is I have seen the results. The fantastic, versatile abilities of family goods such as vinegar and lemon juice are forever being indicated for all manor of cleaning, and yes they can get the job done. They operate by virtue of becoming acidic and will break down a number of minerals (lime scale on tiles for example).
Not only have you ever noticed entire floors ruined, the surface completely etched, but they also stain the ground. After performing this as great job of removing the polish, then they add their own color or hue into the now much more porous floor.
12. Neglecting the Seal
Don’t assume that simply because your stone floor was sealed during setup, that it still has an effective seal set up two years on. It may have, but throughout this time, the floor will have had a fair bit of visitors and it has most probably been exposed to a number of cleaning chemicals. It’s advisable to inspect the integrity of the sealer periodically. For a coating type sealer I would suggest checking about every 6 to 12 months, for an impregnator every 12 to 24 months.
The way to do it is to shed some water on the ground and leave it for say 10 minutes. If it moves in fast and darkens the stone, then when wiped away it leaves a wet patch, then it would be advisable to top up the sealer. If the water does not go in the stone except for a feint surface shadow, it’s probably fine for the time being.