cost of refinishing wood floors

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cost-of-refinishing-wood-floors cost of refinishing wood floors

cost of refinishing wood floors – Stone floors are really popular, and they have been for several decades. The huge array of colors and colors, the durability, practicality and comparative ease of maintenance, and their prosperity in nature has made them a perennial selection of flooring material down the centuries. However, they are not indestructible, they are easy to care for and maintain but there are some pitfalls to avoid. Below are the most common mistakes individuals make when caring for their floors.

1. Lack of Dust Mats

The number 1 enemy of all floors, not only rock, is grit. If I were to shoot two diamonds (the hardest known all-natural substance) and rub them against one another, guess what, they will possibly wear. Every-day grit, carried in on shoes may contain all kinds of minerals such as quartz. Walking this on your floor will quickly dull and scratch its surface. The solution is to eliminate self indulgent, any way you can and one of the most effective ways is to place a dust-collecting mat outside the door. If you add another only inside you are giving your floor a far greater chance of preventing harmful grit.

2. Walking in your Stone Floors with Out-Door Shoes

This is associated with the first point naturally. In case you’ve got a fancy polished wood floor, or an expensive rug, I wager you take off your shoes right? All of us tend to instinctively understand the way to be careful on other floors materials and deal with them with the respect they deserve. Well rock is no different, it needs love and esteem also. Take your shoes off and put your slippers on, that way you cannot carry harmful grit on the ground.

3. Over-Mopping

Some folk just appear to want to wash their floor to departure. The more you wash with powerful detergents and don’t rinse effectively, (see point #6), the more possibility of leaving residues which produce the floor appear dull and dead. Most frequently, all that’s required is some regular dry cleaning or sweeping, with a soft brush or micro-fibre floor duster and/or vacuuming. This may also help keep grit off the ground.

4. Not replying to Spills and Accidents right away

Somehow, we tend to treat hard rock floors differently to say carpet or wood. If, for instance, we have an extremely costly carpet and we spill something on it, like a glass of wine for instance, would we sit and see it become a blot? I really don’t think so. Even if this rug has some kind of stain protection on it, we know that it will only buy us some ‘time to react’, so we rush off into the kitchen for those towels.

Well guess what, providing ‘response time’ is all sealers do for gems. Exactly like the carpet, if we spill something we should absorb this up straight away, particularly if it is something such as wine or some other acidic liquid. We don’t trickle ‘stains’ we trickle contaminants, so it is when we leave the contaminant for a length of time to permeate the rock, that they become spots. If the floor is sealed with a great sealer, we just get a little more reaction time. Many spots would be avoided by caring for spills and injuries as the occur.

5. Wrong choice of cleaner for routine cleaning

But most of these are powerful de-greasers, higher ph cleaners meant to wash very grubby floors. Furthermore, there is a natural human inclination to ignore instructions and make it extra powerful, if it states add one capful a bucket, just how a lot of us have inserted another one just for luck? There are causes of these instructions and dilution prices but much more important, there is simply no need to use such chemicals for every day or weekly cleanup.

When the floor does require a fast wash (and if we take note of the first 4 points then this might not need to be too frequently) no issue, we just need to be certain that you use a neutral cleaner, that’s just one having a ph value of about 7 to 8. There are plenty of them on the market, all designed to wash gently with no harmful influence on the ground or onto any sealer or finish that may be applied.

6. Just carrying on with the Exact Same old pattern

This is the time to utilize those high alkaline cleaners. However, try to use one which is designed for stone instead of only reaching for the cheapest supermarket brand (we are just doing this once or twice a year so no need to penny-pinch).

The crucial word here is live period – these cleaners will need to get left on the ground for a time period – 5 to 15 minutes typically. The biggest mistake people make here is to just mop the floor with the large ph detergent. Ignore live time and you waste your time and effort. The cleansers require time to work. They then need to get agitated, or scrubbed, remember we aren’t doing so each week, only a couple of times a year so we are able to afford the time to do it properly. Notice, this kind of cleaner might have an effect on almost any sealer utilized, so check first; you might need to top the dyes up afterwords.

7. Not Rinsing the ground after washing

This is only one of the very important, yet most overlooked aspects of floor cleaning. It isn’t important how much effort we put to cleanup, nor how successful the cleaning-chemical, if we leave filthy water lying on the ground, when it dries, we will have residues. Think about what we have only achieved: we place a solid chemical on the ground; we allow it to sit (live time) so it’s started to break down the ingrained dirt; we scrubbed – to loosen more dirt and allow the cleaner to penetrate deeper.

Then what tends to happen is that we push all this around with a mop, occasionally rinse the mop in plain water which by today has long since ceased being clean or fresh, and we place the only partially cleaned mop, back on the ground to spread more grungy water round. Sure, some of this dirt is moved to the mop bucket, however, a lot gets left behind. Along with the dirt (some of which is now broken down and nicer, so it may get deeper to the ground(particularly the grout joints) we also leave behind detergent residue. This combo of residue and partially emulsified grime quickly builds up to leave a dull patina on the rock and is one of the main reasons grout lines go dim and grubby so quickly.

The remedy is easy, after washing the ground, go change the filthy water which includes the detergent, rinse the bucket out along with the mop and fill the bucket with fresh, clean water. Now, go over the ground again with only that wash water. If it is a big floor, you might have to change the wash water again, maybe more than once – but do it since it’ll save you time in the long run.

8. Leaving the ground wet

Have you discovered what happens to glass windows after washing if they are only left to dry naturally? Many rock floors are smooth or even polished and as a result they can act in the exact same manner as glass. Therefore, after draining the ground, it is good practice to wash the floor down with an absorbent cotton towel or a micro-fiber fabric. Buffing floors dry like that (either by hand or with a machine, depending upon how big your floor) will eliminate the residual moisture (and any stray smudges which might have been missed).

9.

If we do not react fast enough to spills (error #4) we can wind up with a blot. If we always ignore that blot, and another one and so on, pretty soon the floor is able to look deeply ingrained and usually grubby. For isolated little stains try a localized poultice stain remover.

10.

Once an acid sensitive rock floor, such as polished marble is exposed to an acidic contaminant, such as red wine, the end result is often either a blot (the reddish colour) and an etch mark. It is frequently confused with a blot as it is so frequently accompanied by you. The acidity basically burns fresh holes in the rock, those holes weren’t there before, so no sealer could have got into them, Additionally, most polished floors use impregnating sealers which work below the surface and so offer no defense against acids in the surface itself.

The best way to spot an etch mark is to wash the ‘blot’ (deep wash or poultice for example) then after rinsing and permitting the ground to dry assess where the blot was. If the stain has now gone, but in its place is a dull spot often with a rougher texture (compared to the polished surface) and a thinner or bleached (less color anyway) appearance, then this really is an etch-mark. If we now ignore this damage (because that’s what it is, bodily damage to the rock surface) then it may leave the rock more vulnerable to staining (the surface is now more textured so it is going to often maintain dirt more easily, it is also less dense, and so potentially more absorbent and any sealer will have been compromised). Small and localized etching may be quickly repaired with a hand applied re-polishing lotion, bigger scale etching will probably require the help of a rock floor professional.

11. Using Home Remedies and Natural Acids

Please, don’t listen to them, period. The reason I take such a strong stance on this is that I have seen the results. The wonderful, versatile abilities of family products such as vinegar and lemon juice are forever being suggested for all manor of cleaning, and yes they can work. They operate by virtue of becoming acidic and will break down quite a few minerals (lime scale on tiles for instance).

The issue is they kill the surface of calcium-based along with other acid sensitive stones (marble, limestone, travertine to mention but a few). Not only have I seen whole floors ruined, the surface completely etched, but in addition they stain the ground. After performing this as great job of removing the polish, they then add their own color or hue into the now much more porous floor.

12. Neglecting the Seal

Don’t assume that just because your rock floor was sealed during installation, that it still has an effective seal set up two decades on. It might have, but during this time, the floor will have had a fair bit of visitors and it’s most probably been subjected to a variety of cleaning chemicals. It is highly advisable to inspect the integrity of this sealer occasionally. To get a coat type sealer I would suggest checking about every 6 to 12 weeks, for an impregnator each 12 to 24 weeks.

The way to do this is to shed some water on the ground and leave it to say 10 minutes. If it moves in quickly and darkens the rock, then when wiped it away leaves a wet patch, then it would be a good idea to top up the sealer. If the water doesn’t go in the rock except for a feint surface shadow, then it is probably fine for the time being.

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